Winter in Hungary
Regular readers already know that summers here are pleasant. But many people have asked us what winter is like. Is it even bearable here in winter?
Let’s start with a bold statement: winters aren’t what they used to be. Even in Hungary, winters have become much milder over the years. But this year, we’ve been “lucky” – we’re having a real cold spell. According to locals, it’s been nine years since there was this much snow and frost. This kind of weather used to be completely normal every winter back in the 1980s and 1990s.
So what exactly is a Hungarian winter like?
❄️ Temperature
Our own outdoor thermometer (not an official measurement) barely rose above freezing for the past ten days, with a nightly low of -15°C. Whenever it did creep above zero, that was probably thanks to sunshine rather than actual air temperature. Weather forecasts even mentioned temperatures below -20°C in other parts of Hungary. So yes – it can get seriously cold here.
🌨️ Snow
Official measurements in our county reported around 30 cm of snow. Because of the wind, the snow piles up in drifts – a few days after snowfall, it can vary from almost nothing to 50 cm.
🚗 Roads
Road conditions are extremely variable. Some salt is used, but most clearing is done with snowploughs. Small roads are often ignored completely. Even on larger roads, like the main road toward Várpalota, conditions can be treacherous: within 200 meters you might go from dry asphalt to full snow and back again. So drive carefully, and winter tires are definitely not a luxury. We’ve also heard that during a “code red” weather warning, some insurance companies refuse to pay out after an accident.
🎿 What can you do in winter?
- Walking – Snow-covered hills and a frozen Lake Balaton are absolutely stunning.
- Sledging – We went to nearby Pétfürdő, which is perfect for a winter walk and has great slopes for sledding (yes, we tested them ourselves).
- Skiing – In Eplény, just 30 minutes away, all slopes are open. Natural snow is supported by snow cannons, and both conditions and views are excellent. We also went here last year, and you can read all about it here.
- Sauna – Our wood-fired sauna works just as well in winter. Cooling down in the snow afterward is incredibly refreshing – and the brave can even jump straight into Lake Balaton.
- Ice skating:
- On our own pond: solid ice, but very uneven due to snowfall – more obstacle course than skating rink.
- On Lake Balaton: once common, but it hasn’t fully frozen in nine years. This year it did, though the ice still wasn’t thick enough to skate safely.
- Artificial rinks: we visited Budapest’s famous Műjégpálya near Heroes’ Square – huge, beautiful, and surrounded by city views. You can rent skates and even order lángos, gyros or churros while skating.
🏠 And indoors?
Yes, the gas bill will be higher this year, but our heating handles the cold just fine. Sadly, that’s not the case for everyone. Poverty is real here, and many people rely on wood stoves. The municipality has even opened an emergency hotline to help those who have run out of firewood.
