The other side of the Balaton
Mass tourism or authenticity?
On the complete opposite side of Lake Balaton – about 100 km from where we live – lies the part of the lake where most German, Dutch and Belgian tourists settle. It’s also a popular area for retirees looking for a quiet place to buy a home by the “Hungarian sea”. We explored our options there ourselves two years ago, but eventually chose the slightly more expensive north-eastern side: easier to reach from Budapest and, to us, much more authentically Hungarian.
Two years ago, we had already visited the beautiful town of Keszthely and the spa resort Hévíz (both absolute recommendations). But the popular Kis-Balaton (Little Balaton) and the thermal hotels of Zalakaros were still unknown territory for us.
Both places are definitely worth a visit. Floating around in thermal water for two days, sauna sessions, extensive breakfasts, live music you can dance to, and even a large “play hall” – Hotel Karos Spa offers it all. We celebrated our 10-year anniversary there, and it was wonderful. Still, for us, two days is enough. The area is very much focused on mass tourism, with several huge hotels and busloads of foreign visitors.
Kis-Balaton (Little Balaton – though still a large lake) is often praised as a paradise for walkers. And yes, there are nicely laid-out walking paths and plenty of (water) birds. But the whole area feels quite park-like. That makes it suitable for walkers with rollators and wheelchairs, but it’s especially popular with anglers. We personally prefer slightly wilder nature, though for a calm, flat walk it’s certainly a good recommendation.
Conclusion
We’re happy where we are, on the less foreign-touristy side of Lake Balaton. The fact that we don’t have fellow countrymen nearby actually encourages us even more to truly integrate and learn the language.
